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Question for CAR EXPERTS about my check engine light


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 2 weeks ago '16        #1
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GLOIN  topics gone triple plat - Number 1 spot x15
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Question for CAR EXPERTS about my check engine light
 

 
Just had work done on my check engine for my VW Tiguan and I got new spark plugs, oil separator, coils and when I started the car up at the shop it was off but when I was about to drive off it came back on and the owner of the shop came and looked at it and brought the device out to turn it off and he told me to drive it 30-50 miles and it should permanently go off without coming on. He said if the light came back on to bring the car back

So I’m driving it the same day after they got the light to go off and I got my emissions done and I passed and the light was off for the rest of the day when I got home

The next day when I started the car up the light was flashing on and off and then finally stayed on smh

car experts is it just a faulty engine sensor or what?
@realgunta @nigs


Last edited by GLOIN; 10-30-2019 at 06:27 PM..
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 2 weeks ago '06        #2
realgunta 
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@ what year is your Tiguain?


 2 weeks ago '16        #3
GLOIN  topics gone triple plat - Number 1 spot x15 OP
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 realgunta said
@ what year is your Tiguain?

2010 Wolfsburg
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 2 weeks ago '04        #4
xbossxplayax 
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yo the thing i never could wrap my head around is... how some owners go into shops to just erase the error code in the readout/turn off the CEL/erase the "next service XYZ in X miles" and just keep driving

here youre saying the shop owner told u to do that?

call me a pu**y but i'd never ignore any sign that my cars be throwing at me. the chance that the lights come on erroneously is negligible to me
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 2 weeks ago '19        #5
unit321  topics gone triple plat - Number 1 spot x3
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 GLOIN said
Just had work done on my check engine for my VW Tiguan and I got new spark plugs, oil separator, coils and when I started the car up at the shop it was off but when I was about to drive off it came back on and the owner of the shop came and looked at it and brought the device out to turn it off and he told me to drive it 30-50 miles and it should permanently go off without coming on. He said if the light came back on to bring the car back

So Im driving it the same day after they got the light to go off and I got my emissions done and I passed and the light was off for the rest of the day when I got home

The next day when I started the car up the light was flashing on and off and then finally stayed on smh

car experts is it just a faulty engine sensor or what?
@ @
So when a CEL goes off, find out what error codes are being given. You need a CEL reader, but some auto parts stores can do that for you for free (hoping you'll buy parts from their store). But, I have a CEL reader. I look it up and see what its related to. After I fix it, I expect the check engine light to stay off. If it comes back on, I want to check it.

So, in your case, what codes were thrown. If you replaced parts that weren't related to the CEL codes, then you just wasted your money. If you replace the spark plugs but the error was related to the mass air flow sensor, then that same error is going to come back. Also, multiple error codes can be thrown.

Find out what error codes are being thrown.
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 2 weeks ago '06        #6
realgunta 
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 xbossxplayax said
yo the thing i never could wrap my head around is... how some owners go into shops to just erase the error code in the readout/turn off the CEL/erase the "next service XYZ in X miles" and just keep driving

here youre saying the shop owner told u to do that?

call me a pu**y but i'd never ignore any sign that my cars be throwing at me. the chance that the lights come on erroneously is negligible to me
very true

 2 weeks ago '06        #7
realgunta 
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@

if you are still having the issue, go back to the shop that you went. They need to solve the issue OR give you your money back tbh

im a*suming you didnt want to go to the dealership. Sometimes the dealership might be the better option.
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 2 weeks ago '16        #8
GLOIN  topics gone triple plat - Number 1 spot x15 OP
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 unit321 said
So when a CEL goes off, find out what error codes are being given. You need a CEL reader, but some auto parts stores can do that for you for free (hoping you'll buy parts from their store). But, I have a CEL reader. I look it up and see what its related to. After I fix it, I expect the check engine light to stay off. If it comes back on, I want to check it.

So, in your case, what codes were thrown. If you replaced parts that weren't related to the CEL codes, then you just wasted your money. If you replace the spark plugs but the error was related to the mass air flow sensor, then that same error is going to come back. Also, multiple error codes can be thrown.

Find out what error codes are being thrown.
Error codes 300,301,302

 2 weeks ago '16        #9
GLOIN  topics gone triple plat - Number 1 spot x15 OP
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 xbossxplayax said
yo the thing i never could wrap my head around is... how some owners go into shops to just erase the error code in the readout/turn off the CEL/erase the "next service XYZ in X miles" and just keep driving

here youre saying the shop owner told u to do that?

call me a pu**y but i'd never ignore any sign that my cars be throwing at me. the chance that the lights come on erroneously is negligible to me
He said all the lights were off and when I started it up they were off. However as I was about to leave the place the light came back on and thats when he brought the scanner thing out. He also put some of that fuel injector cleaner in as well. Idk if this is playing a big role in why my light is on but Ive been putting unleaded gas in my car when it says I should be putting premium unleaded

 2 weeks ago '19        #10
unit321  topics gone triple plat - Number 1 spot x3
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 GLOIN said
Error codes 300,301,302
P0300 misfire not related to just one cylinder
P0301 misfire cylinder 1
P0302 misfire cylinder 2

So you changed the spark plugs and the coils. That's like a first step. So, if you were getting them before, and you are getting them again. You might need new spark plug wires. The best way to figure out which wire is bad is to get a multi-meter and test each wire out. You would find out which wire is the bad one, or you can just replace them all. But, if none of the wires are bad, then, you would be replacing the wires for no reason.

Now, I read your subsequent post, if you are putting in 87 octane but your car recommends using premium unleaded, then, that would be a reason your car is throwing that CEL.

Why? When you use regular unleaded gasoline, it doesn't burn as effectively as premium unleaded. Why do you need premium, fuel is fuel? A normally-aspirated engine can run on 87 octane without issues. The fuel is sprayed in with air into the cylinder in the first stroke. The intake valves close and the cylinder compresses the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder in the second stroke. The spark plug fires off in the third stroke pushing the cylinder down. The exhaust valves open up and the cylinder pushes burnt gases out in the fourth stroke.
An interesting thing about intake valves and exhaust valves is that the intake valve actually starts opening up in the third stroke. This decreases the power in the third stroke. Why would engineers do that? Keep it closed until the cylinder hits bottom dead center. It's wasting energy and efficiency. This link describes why.

So, the Tiguan has a turbo-charged engine. Timing for turbo-charged engines get retarded (that's the term to decrease instead of advance timing). Wut and why? In turbo-charged engines, the turbo is pushing more air into the cylinder on the first stroke. This requires the engine to push in more fuel in the first stroke. Then, the second stroke compresses more air and fuel. Then, the third stroke fires off. Now, if you put in 87 octane fuel instead of 92 octane, shouldn't they both burn up? This is one of the reasons why timing is retarded. The cylinder is now past top dead center and then the spark plug fires off. If the spark plug fired off at TDC, there's a slight possibility that the cylinder blows down the crank in the opposite direction. That would fubar your engine. So, you let the cylinder drop, fire it off, and now you are at the fourth stroke. Why is 87 octane causing a misfire in cylinder 1 and 2 when gas has burned off?
Low octane fuel may cause knock, and although your engine's ECU is working to prevent knock, and your engine is still running, it may be the reason for your CEL to go off.
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 2 weeks ago '16        #11
GLOIN  topics gone triple plat - Number 1 spot x15 OP
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 unit321 said
P0300 misfire not related to just one cylinder
P0301 misfire cylinder 1
P0302 misfire cylinder 2

So you changed the spark plugs and the coils. That's like a first step. So, if you were getting them before, and you are getting them again. You might need new spark plug wires. The best way to figure out which wire is bad is to get a multi-meter and test each wire out. You would find out which wire is the bad one, or you can just replace them all. But, if none of the wires are bad, then, you would be replacing the wires for no reason.

Now, I read your subsequent post, if you are putting in 87 octane but your car recommends using premium unleaded, then, that would be a reason your car is throwing that CEL.

Why? When you use regular unleaded gasoline, it doesn't burn as effectively as premium unleaded. Why do you need premium, fuel is fuel? A normally-aspirated engine can run on 87 octane without issues. The fuel is sprayed in with air into the cylinder in the first stroke. The intake valves close and the cylinder compresses the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder in the second stroke. The spark plug fires off in the third stroke pushing the cylinder down. The exhaust valves open up and the cylinder pushes burnt gases out in the fourth stroke.
An interesting thing about intake valves and exhaust valves is that the intake valve actually starts opening up in the third stroke. This decreases the power in the third stroke. Why would engineers do that? Keep it closed until the cylinder hits bottom dead center. It's wasting energy and efficiency. This link describes why.

So, the Tiguan has a turbo-charged engine. Timing for turbo-charged engines get retarded (that's the term to decrease instead of advance timing). Wut and why? In turbo-charged engines, the turbo is pushing more air into the cylinder on the first stroke. This requires the engine to push in more fuel in the first stroke. Then, the second stroke compresses more air and fuel. Then, the third stroke fires off. Now, if you put in 87 octane fuel instead of 92 octane, shouldn't they both burn up? This is one of the reasons why timing is retarded. The cylinder is now past top dead center and then the spark plug fires off. If the spark plug fired off at TDC, there's a slight possibility that the cylinder blows down the crank in the opposite direction. That would fubar your engine. So, you let the cylinder drop, fire it off, and now you are at the fourth stroke. Why is 87 octane causing a misfire in cylinder 1 and 2 when gas has burned off?
Low octane fuel may cause knock, and although your engine's ECU is working to prevent knock, and your engine is still running, it may be the reason for your CEL to go off.
Very good information, Im gonna take it back tomorrow to get them to look at it. They also replaced the oil separator

 2 weeks ago '19        #12
unit321  topics gone triple plat - Number 1 spot x3
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 GLOIN said
Very good information, Im gonna take it back tomorrow to get them to look at it. They also replaced the oil separator
Drive it around using premium octane. See if your CEL goes away.
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 2 weeks ago '16        #13
GLOIN  topics gone triple plat - Number 1 spot x15 OP
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 unit321 said
Drive it around using premium octane. See if your CEL goes away.
I had half a tank of unleaded regular since last week and so I went to the gas station earlier today at Kroger and filled the rest up with premium. What do you think?

 2 weeks ago '19        #14
unit321  topics gone triple plat - Number 1 spot x3
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 GLOIN said
I had half a tank of unleaded regular since last week and so I went to the gas station earlier today at Kroger and filled the rest up with premium. What do you think?
So, how long does it take for you to go through a tank of gas?
You could add octane booster to your current tank. And then, from that point forward, always fill up with premium unleaded. Your CEL should eventually go away if the "regular unleaded" was causing knock and the ECU was getting misfires. If you are driving with premium gas for, say 500 miles, and the CEL doesn't go away. Then, go back to wherever you got it repaired. Have them do another CEL reading. It could be related to a different problem that gives off the P0301, P0302, or P0300 error.

Also, look around on the internet for VW Tiguan forums. Usually, other Tiguan owners may be able to help you with certain CEL issues so you can get it fixed/avoid future problems.
I do most maintenance and repairs on my own car, unless it's beyond my skill level. I don't trust mechanics, it's kind of like backing up into a gay bar with your pants down and body covered in astroglide. It's a high risk situation and you probably are going to get it in the pooper.
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 2 weeks ago '16        #15
GLOIN  topics gone triple plat - Number 1 spot x15 OP
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 unit321 said
So, how long does it take for you to go through a tank of gas?
You could add octane booster to your current tank. And then, from that point forward, always fill up with premium unleaded. Your CEL should eventually go away if the "regular unleaded" was causing knock and the ECU was getting misfires. If you are driving with premium gas for, say 500 miles, and the CEL doesn't go away. Then, go back to wherever you got it repaired. Have them do another CEL reading. It could be related to a different problem that gives off the P0301, P0302, or P0300 error.

Also, look around on the internet for VW Tiguan forums. Usually, other Tiguan owners may be able to help you with certain CEL issues so you can get it fixed/avoid future problems.
I do most maintenance and repairs on my own car, unless it's beyond my skill level. I don't trust mechanics, it's kind of like backing up into a gay bar with your pants down and body covered in astroglide. It's a high risk situation and you probably are going to get it in the pooper.
It usually takes me 300 miles to go through a tank of gas. For me thats roughly every other week. Howd you learn how to do maintenance on your car?

 2 weeks ago '19        #16
unit321  topics gone triple plat - Number 1 spot x3
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 GLOIN said
It usually takes me 300 miles to go through a tank of gas. For me that’s roughly every other week. How’d you learn how to do maintenance on your car?
I bought a Haynes car repair manual for a car I bought years ago. I bought a bunch of metric tools and started doing just maintenance stuff related to tune-ups. Changing the air filter, filling up the windshield washer fluid, replacing the wipers, replacing bulbs and fuses. Then, I started doing things that were a bit more mechanical like replacing spark plugs, the distributor cap and rotor (most cars don't have one nowadays). Then, I kind of found that most things involving repair and maintenance involved unscrewing bolts and screwing them back on.
I learned how to change motor oil, automatic transmission fluid, anti-freeze.
Then, I got to working on bigger parts that weren't moving. I replaced a cat-back exhaust system. It was just bolts holding the exhaust pipe flanges and rubber hangars holding the exhaust pieces up. Nothing is moving, no gears, no electrical wires.
I found more and more things were just a matter of taking stuff off and putting it back on in the way you took it off, but you might need a special tool. I've replaced a catalytic converter, alternator, water pump, thermostat, ball joint, tie rod end, anti-roll bar, upper control arm, seat and seat bracket, carpet, car stereo, car speakers, PCV valve, car battery, accessory belt, brake discs, brake pads, brake drum shoes, motor mounts.
Youtube and internet forums also have directions on how things are done too.
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 2 weeks ago '16        #17
GLOIN  topics gone triple plat - Number 1 spot x15 OP
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 unit321 said
I bought a Haynes car repair manual for a car I bought years ago. I bought a bunch of metric tools and started doing just maintenance stuff related to tune-ups. Changing the air filter, filling up the windshield washer fluid, replacing the wipers, replacing bulbs and fuses. Then, I started doing things that were a bit more mechanical like replacing spark plugs, the distributor cap and rotor (most cars don't have one nowadays). Then, I kind of found that most things involving repair and maintenance involved unscrewing bolts and screwing them back on.
I learned how to change motor oil, automatic transmission fluid, anti-freeze.
Then, I got to working on bigger parts that weren't moving. I replaced a cat-back exhaust system. It was just bolts holding the exhaust pipe flanges and rubber hangars holding the exhaust pieces up. Nothing is moving, no gears, no electrical wires.
I found more and more things were just a matter of taking stuff off and putting it back on in the way you took it off. I've replaced a catalytic converter, alternator, water pump, thermostat, ball joint, tie rod end, anti-roll bar, upper control arm, seat and seat bracket, carpet, car stereo, car speakers, PCV valve, car battery, accessory belt, brake discs, brake pads, brake drum shoes, motor mounts.
Youtube and internet forums also have directions on how things are done too.
Major props to you bro, is it easy to change oil?

 2 weeks ago '19        #18
unit321  topics gone triple plat - Number 1 spot x3
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 GLOIN said
Major props to you bro, is it easy to change oil?
That's an interesting question. For the most part, it is. On some cars, it's hard to access the oil filter because of the way it is positioned, and is sometimes hard to spin off. Check out youtube.com
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